Secrets of depth of field. How to control depth of field (flu)

DOF and hyperfocal distance are some of the basic concepts that a novice photographer needs to understand. Let's sort it out in order - what it is and what it is used for in photography.

DOF is an abbreviation for words Depth Of Dramatic Spaceshe Depth of field.In English, the abbreviation IPIG will be called Depth of field or DOP. This is the area of \u200b\u200bspace or the distance between the near and far boundaries, where objects will be perceived as sharp.

Strictly speaking, from the point of view of physics, ideal sharpness can only be in one plane. Where does this region come from? The fact is that the human eye, despite all its perfection, is still not an ideal optical system. We do not notice a slight blurriness of the image to some extent. It is generally accepted that the human eye does not notice a blur of a point up to 0.1 mm from a distance of 0.25 m. All calculations of the depth of field are based on this. In the photograph, this slight blur of a point is called circle of confusion.In most calculation methods, the diameter of the circle of confusion is 0.03 mm.

Based on the assumption that the human eye does not notice some blur, we will no longer have a sharpness plane in space (called the focal plane), but some area that is limited by the allowable blurring of objects. This area will be called the depth of field.

What determines the depth of field

Only two parameters affect the depth of a sharply depicted space:

the lens
Value

In some sources, and positioned as very authoritative, one can find the statement that the size or frame of a film also affects the depth of field. This is actually not the case. The size itself or no effect on the depth of field does not. But why, then, the depth of field for compact cameras with a small size is much larger than for SLR cameras with a large sensor size? Because with a decrease in size, the lens required to get the same angle of view decreases! And the smaller, the greater the depth of field.

The depth of field also depends on the distance to the subject - the closer to the lens, the shallower the depth of field, and the blurring of the background is more pronounced.

How Depth of Field is Used

The choice of the optimal depth of field depends on the shooting tasks. The most common mistake of novice photographers who have recently acquired a fast lens is to shoot everything as open as possible. Once it’s good, but once it’s not. For example, if you shoot a portrait with a shallow depth of field, it may well turn out that your eyes will be sharp and your nose will not. Is it beautiful? A moot point. If the person’s head is turned to the side, then the near eye may turn out to be sharp, and the far eye - blurry. This is quite acceptable, but a client who does not know what depth of field is may have certain questions.

Therefore, in order to obtain the optimum depth of field for portrait shooting, you do not need to always try to open it. For most cases, it is better to cover it with a couple of steps. Then the background will be pleasantly blurred, and the depth of field is acceptable. When shooting group portraits, it is especially important to ensure such a depth of field so that all people get sharp. in this case, it covers better, up to f / 8 –f / 11 when shooting outdoors and in good light.

Hyperfocal distance

What if we need, for example, to photograph where the objects of the foreground and background should be equally sharp? Here the ability to use will come to the rescue hyperfocal distance.This is the distance to the front edge of the sharply depicted space when focusing the lens to infinity. In other words, this is the same DOF, but when focusing on infinity.

Depending on where it is more important to get maximum sharpness - in the foreground or at the most distant objects, they focus either on hyperfocal distance or on infinity. In the first case, the foreground details will be sharper, in the second - distant objects. Hyperfocal distance also depends on the lens and. The more closed and smaller the lens, the smaller the hyperfocal distance.

In this picture, both the foreground and the background are sharp

Calculation of depth of field and hyperfocal distance

To calculate the length of the depth of field and hyperfocal distance, special tables are usually used. But I recommend using a more modern way, namely, a specialized program. It works online directly in the browser. The program is very easy to use, and it is easy to figure it out on your own. And the most important thing that will help you to choose the right depth of field and hyperfocal distance is a constant conscious practice!

The lens is able to focus on sharpness only at a certain distance. Subjects located at a large or small distance from the subject can be quite sharp. This area of \u200b\u200bvisual sharpness can be so small that it is barely noticeable or can increase so much that you can see a clear image to the horizon. Depth of field can be called a zone of visual sharpness.

Only an ideal focus at a certain distance can create a perfectly clear image made up of small dots. At the same time, objects located closer or further will still look sharp, their blurring will be too minimal to be noticeable to a person.

When photographing landscapes, we strive to achieve maximum sharpness in the whole image, starting from the grass next to the tripod and ending with the farthest hills, but this is not the rule and not the law, but the photographer’s personal choice. In the portrait and when shooting sports scenes, on the contrary, a blurred background and objects located next to the subject will help to focus on the main subject.

Keeping the situation under control

Depth of field can vary greatly and is due mainly to three factors.

The first is the opening of the diaphragm. The more the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field. Remember that, for example, f / 16 represents a smaller aperture (lens aperture is closed), and f / 4 represents a larger aperture (lens aperture is open). In SLR cameras with preinstalled programs, when shooting landscapes, more closed apertures are used to increase the depth of field, and when shooting sports events or portraits, they are more open.

To control the opening of the aperture, set the aperture priority mode and the camera will automatically select the shutter speed to set the exact exposure. Shooting in aperture priority mode, adjusting only the aperture number, is quite simple, but this does not always allow you to achieve the desired results. Fortunately, the depth of field is also adjusted using focal length. The larger the focal length, the smaller the depth of field.

For example, by setting the focal length to 18 mm, you can create a completely clear image. Therefore, if you want to blur the background, use a longer focal length.

The third factor is the distance between the camera and the subject.

The smaller this distance, the smaller the depth of field. An example is macro photography in which the depth of field is completely absent and all the individual details of the subject will be in focus. To achieve the best depth of field when shooting at a long distance, it is not always enough to just focus on the most distant subject.

Unfortunately, the three factors involved in controlling the depth of field do not always work well together. For example, if you decide to mount a wide-angle lens for a better depth of field, the subject will be too small and you decide to reduce the distance to the subject to increase its size .. but - this will reduce the depth of field.

Three ways to change the depth of field

How can the aperture, focal length and distance to the subject matter change the sharpness of the image?

We highlight in red the places where the subject will be in focus.

1. Change the aperture

The more the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field. This is not a problem, but the ability to photograph less important details of a photograph when out of focus.

2. Change the distance to the subject

The closer the subject, the smaller the depth of field.

3. Change the focal length

The zoom or lens settings affect the depth of field. The smaller the focal length, the greater the depth of field.

What happens when some parts of the image are out of focus?

Only some parts of the image photographed from the correct distance will be perceived by the camera’s sensors as points and objects, while other objects located at a different distance will be out of focus, and then each bright point will become a disk, the so-called blur disk

Blur discs are very important in photography.

Depth of field does not apply only to objects out of focus. Different parts of the image may be slightly out of focus (small discs of blur) and completely out of focus.

Subjects that are located near the maximum depth of field are still distinguishable and therefore can interfere with image perception. To reduce this defect, it is necessary to blur even more parts of the image (usually the background) so that they become completely unrecognizable. That is, everything must be done in order to reduce the depth of field. This explains the choice of professional photographers lenses with the maximum possible open aperture.

Looking into the viewfinder it is impossible to assess what effect the opening of the aperture will have on the depth of field, since at the moment of focusing the aperture is always maximally open and closes only when you press the shutter button. Many SLR cameras, for example, Nikon, have a preview button that allows you to see the result of shooting with our chosen aperture settings. This function allows you to evaluate the depth of field, but does not allow you to fully evaluate the quality of the image, since the image will be darkened.

Many cameras do not have a preview function and then you can use the Live View mode. Be careful, as in Live View, the changed aperture settings are not displayed. Therefore, to see how changing the aperture settings will affect the image, you must exit the Live View mode and go back in. If your camera does not have either the Live View mode or the preview function, the only way out is to consider the captured image to zoom in on the details.

How to predict the depth of field?

You can make objects sharp and in focus, even if they are not in the center of the image.

Using the viewfinder

Using the viewfinder, you can see the scene with the maximum aperture. In this case, you will see the minimum depth of field, regardless of what aperture value is set

Preview

Many SLR cameras have a preview button, when clicked, the aperture value you set is set

Do not pay attention to brightness

When using the preview button, the image will appear darker, however, this will help to imagine what the depth of field in the image will be.

Use live view

If your camera does not have a preview function, use the Live View mode. To see the effect that will be achieved when changing aperture settings, exit and return to Live View

View images at close range

To assess sharpness in Live View, using the zoom, you can zoom in any part of the image.

Check out the snapshot.

After you press the shutter button, you can view the photo in all its details, enlarging the image with the zoom button

Practice exercises

This exercise will help you apply your depth of field knowledge.

The result of your work will be more understandable when using a small table space, since the depth of field is limited by a small distance. We used the game "Monopoly", but you can take pictures of bottles, cans, cups and any items that you find in the kitchen. If possible, use a tripod to avoid the effect of stirring during shooting and then, any lack of sharpness will depend only on the depth of field.

If you do not have a tripod, shoot in a brightly lit room and use a high ISO value, such as 1000, so that the shutter speed is short enough to use all possible aperture values.

Set the focal length to 55 mm on the lens, focus on the point closest to you, and go into the aperture priority mode, set its minimum value so that the aperture is as wide as possible (usually f / 4-5.6) and press the shutter. Now close the aperture by setting its value to f / 22, and take a second shot. Next, set the lens to a minimum focal length, for example, 18mm and repeat shooting, setting the minimum and maximum aperture.

Consider carefully the four images taken on the computer, zooming the image to assess the lack of sharpness in one or another part of the image. Perhaps with an f / 22 aperture, the image will not be completely sharp, but at a smaller focal length, the depth of field will be greater and objects that were previously completely out of focus will now be distinguishable.

For an inexperienced photographer, an extremely difficult task was set - to understand the variety of parameters that affect the resulting image. And there are many such parameters - the light can be natural, pulsed and constant, opening the aperture, focal length, reflection and refraction of rays, and much more. And the most important collective parameter that integrates them into a system depends on the camera settings and directly affects the resulting image - DOF. Not with fever and cough, but the depth of the sharply depicted space, or the depth of field.

If speaking in simple words, then the depth of field is the area or area in which the subject is clearly and sharply depicted in the picture. It can be "caught" intuitively, by trial and error, or calculated, and by experience and practice to determine it for each combination of camera parameters.

According to physical laws, an object is of maximum sharpness at a single point in space, on one indicator of distance from the lens - the focal plane, but the depth of field is precisely an area that has its own dimensions.

To understand the meaning and clearly present it, you need to understand that the human eye is also a lens. And we do not notice areas of blurring of the subject within the borders "from and to", these boundaries and outline the depth of field. For example, for a point up to 0.1 mm in diameter, these blur parameters are not captured by the eye at a distance of 0.25 m. Points with a smaller diameter will be clear with these parameters, and larger ones will be blurry, unsharp.

How is DOF \u200b\u200bused?

This parameter must be taken into account, if necessary, to draw attention to a specific object in the frame. For example, to take a portrait on a blurry background, highlighting it, or “push” a building or trees in the distance, smearing nearby objects.

In the first case, the focus goes to hyperfocal distance, and in the second - to infinity. In some cases, the photographer deliberately blurs elements to achieve an artistic idea. With a clear understanding of depth of field, such things are much easier to do.

Hyperfocal distance - the distance to the point of sharp image closest to the photographer, with the lens focusing at infinity. It is similar to the depth of field, but it measures the distance from the photographer to the point of sharpness, while the depth of field starts from the point of location of the lens and ends where the image begins to blur and become fuzzy. This setting depends on the focal length of the lens and the degree of opening of the shutter aperture. But the dependence is directly proportional, the smaller the aperture and the focal length of the lens, the lower the hyperfocal index, that is, closer to the photographer.

Having calculated the value of hyperfocal distance once, you can start shooting any landscape with focus on it. Even without calculating the depth of field, sharp images are obtained with the known values \u200b\u200bof the focal length and the degree of opening of the shutter aperture.

Unsharp objects cannot be straightened out in editors. Color changes, effects are superimposed on the image, sharpness is almost impossible to bring in the finished picture.

Dependence of the depth of field and the basic settings of the camera - the focal length, the degree of opening of the aperture and the distance from the camera to the object. By changing the values, the depth of field value increases or decreases to the parameters that are currently needed.

For the subject catalog filming, the depth of field is an important characteristic, the objects sold should be in the frame as a whole and as clearly as possible. Here other rules apply than in artistic photography - the background is not important, it sets off the subject or creates the mood of the frame or should not be visible at all, is removed from a tripod, with manual focus settings. This allows you to achieve maximum sharpness of the image and full rendering of the smallest elements of the object.

Aperture opening

The degree of opening of the shutter aperture is the first and main parameter that affects the depth of field, and inversely proportional.

The wider the aperture is open, the lower the depth of field and vice versa.

Given this point, we understand that with the gradual closure of the curtains, with other parameters remaining constant, the depth of field increases. The area on which all objects are sharp lengthens and increases in two directions. And vice versa, to make the object sharp, but the rest not, it turns out when you focus on it and open the aperture until the blurry out unwanted objects, leaving the focus in focus.

In portrait photography, the aperture should not be maximized, even if it is necessary to obtain maximum foreground sharpness. Important details may go into blur, for example, when shooting half a turn, the second half of the face may be out of focus, become unsharp. Such a picture does not look very artistic and whether the client will like it is unknown.

With a strong desire to blur the background and highlight the person’s face, the diaphragm needs to be slightly covered for the desired result in this DOF. Then the character will not be lost and will not merge with the background.

As an example, the situation is for shooting people in good lighting, for optimal focus, you need to set the aperture f / 8 - f / 11. Then the depth of field will be sufficient to focus on the person as clearly as possible, the image will be sharp, and the background will be slightly blurred.

When the aperture is f / 1,2 - f / 2, the depth of field is so small that getting into it is quite difficult. In this case, it is inconvenient to shoot and the chance to take normal pictures is low, there is a risk of obtaining areas of chromatic aberration.

Chromatic aberrations, or XA, appear in the image in the form of colored halos along the contour of the subject, reducing the overall sharpness and sharpness of the image. They are obtained due to the refraction and splitting of light rays on the objective lens.

In macro photography, the maximum closed aperture is used - f / 16 - f / 22, since the distance to the subject is the smallest possible. But you should not go to the threshold, there is a risk of distortion - diffraction in the finished images.

Diffraction - blurring an object in the image, regardless of the detail of the image and its resolution. This defect cannot be fixed in the editor; you need to avoid it during the shooting process.

Photographers use fixed lenses to maximize the aperture without losing image quality. Thus, the depth of field is maximally narrowed and the necessary objects are highlighted, and the rest becomes blurry, unsharp.

So achieve the effect of "bokeh" - colored circles on the background, giving photos the mood of the holiday and joy. To get the most beautiful "circles" you need a fast lens, with a maximum aperture opening - up to f 1.4, or even f 1.2.

Minimum Focus Distance, Focal Length

Each lens has a technical characteristic - the minimum focal length, which directly affects the shooting close to the subject. It shows how far the subject can be located, as close to the photographer as possible so that he is in focus and looks sharp in the picture.

Focal length is the minimum distance that the lens is able to focus on the subject. Shows how close you can bring the subject to the lens so that it can be clearly photographed with other unchanged parameters.

Here the dependence is the same as with the aperture - the larger the focal length, the smaller the depth of field with other static parameters. That is, the wide-angle lens will have a larger DOF compared to the usual, and you can increase it by additionally covering the aperture.

For example, you can take the following parameters:

Aperture opening - f / 8.0;
The distance to the subject is 2 meters.

At the output, we get different indicators of the depth of field when using lenses with different focal lengths. So a 12 mm lens will give out the depth of field from 62 cm to infinity, and a 200 mm lens will only 3 cm, the best results in this case will be obtained with a 24 mm lens - as much as 314 cm.

Distance between photographer and subject

When shooting outdoors - this is one of the most important indicators, the photographer needs to know how far to move away from the model or subject in order to get the desired effect. The depth of field index depends on this parameter in direct proportion - the closer you are to the object, the smaller the depth of field.

That is why macro photography requires special skills and experience - with an f / 22 aperture, a lens focal length of 60 mm, if you place the object at a distance of 15 cm, it will be extremely difficult to catch the depth of field - it will be only 3.3 cm.

Consider an example, taking as a basis immutable parameters:

Open the aperture to f / 8.0;
Take a lens with a focal length of 85 mm.

If you approach the object closely with such settings, then at a distance of 0.2 and 0.5 m, the depth of field will be only 1 and 0.92 cm, respectively. We move further, up to 1 meter, and we get 4 cm of depth of field. This is not enough for us, we are moving away, and to a distance of 5 meters from the object, we already get 1.1 m of depth of field. The maximum value can be obtained by moving away from the subject 15 meters - it will be 11 meters 10 cm.

Thus, you can change the parameters of depth of field by simply changing the distance to the subject, which is relevant for street and landscape shooting.

The calculation of the depth of field by the formula

And accurate calculations will be needed when the pictures are planned to be printed in large format, where all the flaws will be noticeable. This is true for advertising shooting, especially if objects are shown close-up, or the emphasis is on the face of the model. Then the photographer comes to the aid of the formula for calculating the depth of field.

where P is the depth of field;

R1 is the front border closest to the photographer;

R2 is the point farthest from the photographer where all objects are sharp.

These boundaries are also calculated using formulas:

Parameters that are used here:

R is the focusing range;

f is the focal length of the used lens;

K is the figure from the denominator of the aperture value;

Z - the size of the scattering circle - this is the same minimum diameter of the circle at which we see it clearly. For modern cameras it is better to use the “z” value - 0.015 mm, since the proposed value of 0.03 mm contains a lot of pixels and looks like a circle rather than a dot in the picture.

Using this formula, you can calculate the depth of field, however, it has long been not used in this form. There are depth of field calculators adapted for smartphones, online versions or installed on a PC. They can be used even during the shooting process, when it is necessary to correct the situation obtained during the work.

Examples of similar applications, Hyper Focal Pro, F-Stop Calculator.

In the calculation, it should also be taken into account that the front and back boundaries of the depth of field are at different distances from the focus point. Ideally, this should look like this. For example, when shooting a landscape - the front is very close to the point, and the rear is much further.

In conclusion

An experienced photographer intuitively feels which setting and which direction to change to get the desired result, while an inexperienced one can use special programs to calculate the optimal parameters.

When entering data on the upcoming shooting, it will give out optimal data for adjusting the aperture and distance to the subject, at a constant focal length. Or vice versa, it will provide data for adjustment to change only focus during shooting.

After six months or a year of active filming in different conditions, each photographer will determine the necessary parameters for himself and his camera to get the desired output. Your style also requires experience and proven examples. Practice tuning, calculate the parameters and check them in practice, choosing options for yourself for each type of shooting. Create artistic masterpieces and enjoy unexpected results.

Why do you often blur the background when shooting a portrait? How to blur the background in the photo? If you ever asked these questions and did not find an answer to them - read this article about depth of field (depth of field) in photography.

Firstly, let's decide what this mysterious quantity is - depth of field. Depth of field of image (abbreviated as depth of field) - This is the range of distances in the photograph in which the subject is perceived as sharp. This range of distances is around the focus point and is also called the sharpness area.

Objects in the zone of sharpness look crisp, detailed, with sharp edges. Objects in the image that did not fall into the sharpness zone turn out to be blurry, fuzzy. Moreover, the farther the objects are from the zone of sharpness (focus area), the more blurry they look.

The sharpness zone itself in different photographs may turn out to be larger or smaller in area occupied by the image. So, for example, in one photograph, one detail may fall into the field of sharpness, and the rest of the frame will go into soft blur. In other pictures, the viewer can clearly distinguish the details of objects in the foreground, in the middle, and in the background.

In the first case, they say that the photo was taken from shallow depth of fieldbecause only a small range of distances around the focus point is the area for sharp display of the subject. Such photographs are characterized by strong blurring of objects that are located far from the focus point, and also the majority of the frame is a zone of blur (objects are in defocus, blur).

On the contrary, when we can distinguish sharp details over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe frame (or over most of the image), this indicates great depth of field. Those. over a wide range of distances, objects in the frame look sharp and not blurry.

So again: small DOF - This is the blurring of most of the objects in the frame, as well as the strong blurring of objects distant from the focus point; large DOF - this is when objects in most of the frame look sharp.

By adjusting the depth of field and the focus point on the photo, we can place meaningful emphasis on the pictures. So, in a natural way, the viewer's eye first of all clings to objects that are in focus, in the zone of sharpness. That is why in most cases portraits are shot with a shallow depth of field to highlight the model, to separate it from the background.

When you shoot a landscape (nature, city, architecture), the priority is most often to show every detail of the beauty that unfolds before your eyes. Therefore, classically landscape photography is a photograph with a large depth of field, where we can distinguish every blade of grass, every pebble in the foreground and background.

“Good,” you say. “Now I understand what the depth of field is and what it affects. But with what settings can it be adjusted in the photograph? ” Fair question. I don’t want to go into the exact calculations and subtleties of optical laws (I won’t hide it - I just don’t know them). I’d better tell you what result all these laws lead to in practice and how to use the results of these observations.

Purely from the point of view of the viewer depth of field in photograph - This concept is quite elusive. Looking directly at the picture, it is difficult for us to say how many meters (centimeters) in the real scene were in the zone of sharpness. All this happens, because everything is relative in the photograph, we cannot accurately determine the height of the people being shot or the distance between buildings from the photograph by eye. We can only compare objects with each other. In the same way, we cannot say exactly the zone of sharpness in units of length, we can subjectively compare two photographs and say which of them has a shallower depth of field.

Therefore, I do not want to bother my mind with accurate calculations and numbers. The main thing is to know what visual effect you get in the photo. Nevertheless, some order in the head is needed, so I will give the basic factors that affect the depth of field of the image in the photo:

Aperture relative aperture (aperture value)
Focal length of the lens
The distance from the subject (which focus is directed) to the lens (camera, photographer)
The distance from the subject to environmental objects (background, foreground)

The last three factors are largely interchangeable, and we can say that this is one factor - distance, which takes different forms. But let's start in order.

The stronger the aperture is open (the smaller the aperture value is set), the smaller the depth of field will be (the stronger the blur in the frame). For example, when shooting with an aperture of f1.8, there will be much more objects out of focus than when shooting with an aperture of f4.0 (ceteris paribus).

The larger the focal length of the lens, the smaller will be the depth of field in the frame with other parameters unchanged. In other words, for a more blurry background, choose lenses with a focal length of 50-70 mm or more. That is why lenses with focal lengths of 50 mm, 85 mm, 135 mm, etc. are considered good portrait lenses.

As we already found out, objects located further from the focus point, blur more. This can be used directly in your work. For example, to separate the model from the background due to the shallow depth of field, you need not only to open the aperture and set the telephoto lens. If you “stick” the model to the wall (serving as a background), then the wall will still be in the zone of sharpness or only slightly go into blur. The stronger you want to blur the background, the further you need to move the model away from this background.

For example, when shooting a model near a wall with climbing grapes, even on an open iris, some leaves will fall into the zone of sharpness. If you choose a street that goes into the distance as a background, all objects in the background will become indistinguishable due to the large distance that separates the focus point (model) and the location of objects in the background.
The closer you get to your model with your camera, the smaller the depth of field in the frame, all other things being equal. The closer you get to the subject, the larger the crop, the more the background goes into blur and the more details, even on the model itself, may be in the blur zone. That's why when shooting a large-scale portrait with an open aperture, it sometimes happens that one eye is in focus, and the other is already in the blur zone.

Now you know the basic principles of management depth of field in photos. Now is the time to practice! Use these tips in the next shoot, and you will feel the difference.

Have a nice shot!

“Depth of field (depth of sharpness of space, or depth of field) in photography is the distance between the near and far boundaries of space, measured along the optical axis, when within which objects are in focus” - Wikipedia. This article will tell you how to use the IPIG in your own photo.

A shallow depth of field becomes useful when you need to separate an object from the background, for example when shooting portraits or close-ups. The large depth of field is a great way to create photos with lots of detail.

Control the depth of field.

There are three aspects on which the achieved depth of field effect depends on the size of the aperture, the distance to the object, and the type of lens. (There is a fourth aspect related to the sensor, but we will not touch on it).

As you can see in the picture above, the smallest f value is equivalent to the smallest depth of field. A larger f-number will allow you to capture longer distances into focus (if you are given little time to adjust the focus, it will be a good option to increase the depth of field by changing the aperture).

The distance between you and your object is also very important. The closer you are to the subject, the shallower the depth of field. If you shoot a person, and at the same time want to get a high F, you will still have the opportunity to get a small DOF, keeping the distance between you and the person to a minimum.

The last detail that can be affected to change the depth of field is to change the lens. A wide-angle lens has great potential for controlling depth of field, unlike a telephoto lens.

It is important to consider that the depth of field is most noticeable behind the object than in front of it. If you are going to take, for example, twenty children standing in one line, and you want as many of them to be in focus, but you don’t have the opportunity to use a small aperture, focus on the 6th or 7th as a child in a line, thereby balancing the focus area to the right (depending on distance) If you focus on the 10th child in the center, the children in the beginning will be less focused than those in the end.

Unlike other moments of shooting, IPIG works for you almost always. If you want to take a landscape, you usually use a wide-angle lens to shoot a subject that is far away from you and to take advantage of the small F value. All this together gives your pictures the depth of infinity. When you photograph macro, you have to stay very close to the object, usually in such cases use telephoto lenses or other lenses with a small f-value - all these components allow you to get a very small depth of field, highlighting your object and blurring the background.

The word Boke comes from the Japanese word Boke, which means "spot" or "fuzzy". The lack of focus in some parts of the photo can look completely different, both depending on the depth of field, and depending on the lens used. Aperture size is one of the main components along with the quality of optics when it comes to blurring some parts of the image.

The photo above shows an example of bokeh. The lens used in photography is the Canon 50mm f / 1.8, which is actually not a good option for bokeh.